Wharton High School in north Tampa has a culinary arts program designed to teach its students about cuisines of the world and to possibly launch some careers in the food industry. This would be a good time to point out my severe jealousy that such a program did not exist when I was in high school. Then again, neither did fire, the wheel, or dirt. I would have been all over this program like a grease stain on an expensive tie! The best I was able to do was a seventh grade home economics class. I think we made macaroni and cheese and almost burned the school down once. Ah memories...but I digress.
You might not think that food prepared by a bunch of high school kids would warrant space here. You would be wrong. These budding culinarians are well trained by Chef Instructor Edward Bujarski and are quite capable of producing some seriously high quality food.
This post will highlight the Twilight Dinner I attended at the school on February 26. This is an elaborate dinner/tasting menu done annually both as a fundraiser for needed supplies and as preparation for upcoming culinary competitions against other high school culinary programs. Three of the dishes prepared in this menu will be part of their upcoming competition.
This is the third such dinner I have attended in as many years and I have never been disappointed. This was certainly the case with this latest dinner comprised mainly of Greek and Greek-inspired dishes. Several times during this feast I had to remind myself that all 11 (yes, I said 11!) courses were being prepared, arranged for presentation, and served by a team of KIDS! For 40 people! Think that's easy? Get a few of your friends together and try it sometime. The dinner started on time, the flow of courses was well done, the timing of course presentation from one dish to the next was impeccable, and the service was great. They were a well-oiled machine, just like one would find in a professional kitchen and wait staff.
I wanted the kids to have an idea of what it would be like to read a critique of their work in print, so with Ed's blessing, let's get on to the review of the food.
Course #1: Collection of Bites Including Grilled Lamb Ribs, Hummus and Spanakopita
This course was a sign of the great things to come. This was more a small appetizer platter than an "amuse bouche" as it was labeled on the menu but after tasting these items semantics were irrelevant. The hummus was served on toasted pita points and was garlicky and delicious. We've all had bad spanakopita, the famous Greek dish of spinach and cheese baked in phyllo pastry. Imagine a spanakopita where the spinach is the star of the dish as it should be and the pastry is warm and crispy instead of languid. That's exactly what I got, beautifully done. The revelation of the dish was the lamb ribs. This is a sadly underutilized cut of the animal that was prepared exceptionally well here. Succulent, a bit fatty, very slightly gamy as good lamb often is, tender, simply seasoned - perfect.
Course #2: Goat Cheese Dolmades
Dolmades as they are usually prepared are not my favorite things on earth. This version, grape leaves stuffed with goat cheese instead of rice and served warm instead of cold drizzled with a bit of very good quality olive oil, was just superb. From conception to execution, savory and wonderful.
Course #3: Avgolemono (Lemon and Egg Soup)
Another staple of classic Greek cuisine, avgolemono is a dish that, when done well, is bright with acid and leaves you wanting more. This version, served with a garnish of saffron accented rice, was very well prepared. It was simple, clean, and very tasty. The only issue I had with the dish was from a presentation standpoint. As it was a tasting portion, it may have been better served in a demitasse cup instead of a bowl as the soup got cold quickly.
Course #4: Grilled Seafood of Mahi Mahi and Octopus
Even though the problems with this dish were small, to me this was the least successful offering of the evening. The octopus was tender (no small task!) and had a good natural flavor but it was underseasoned and unidentifiable the way it was presented. My portion of mahi was slightly overcooked and also lacked proper seasoning. The accompanying sauce tasted great but could not save the overall dish.
Course #5: An Intermezzo of Fruits
The combination of watermelon, papaya, and citrus on one plate with a black pepper garnish made little sense to me. I would have much preferred only one fruit as a palate cleanser.
Course #6: Vegetable Moussaka
I'll come right out with it...I hate moussaka. The versions I've had in the past were far too oily, too rich, and too overpowering with eggplant to be anything but horrible. Needless to say I was not too happy when I saw moussaka on this menu but I had to keep an open mind. Have to be objective, right? This was the second revelation of the evening. I don't have to hate moussaka anymore, as long as I can find this interpretation. The meat in the dish was deftly replaced by portobello mushrooms. The mushrooms combined with broiled eggplant, a spicy Greek tomato sauce, a properly done bechamel sauce, and great authentic seasonings to create an inspired rendition of this classic. It was warm and inviting, just great. I could have eaten ten more portions, to hell with the wheelbarrow I would have needed to get back to my car!
Course #7: Florida Citrus
This sorbet was a simple, tart, sweet, and tasty palate cleanser that was perfect for this point in the meal. I could have done with this for course #5; I wouldn't have minded having it twice it was that good.
Course #8: Lamb and Steak Keftedes
If you are not familiar with keftedes, think Greek meatballs and you'll be pretty close. This was billed as the premier entree and premier it was! The keftedes competed with the vegetable moussaka for the best savory dish of the evening. Any home cook who has made any version of meatballs knows how easy they are to screw up, especially in the moisture department. These were just perfect: very moist with a great texture. The insertion of a little piece of feta cheese in the middle of each keftes was brilliant and added a great salty bite to the dish. The couscous served with the keftedes harmoniously balanced the sweet and the savory and was properly cooked. The artichoke and tzatziki sauce accompaniments were tasty and complemented the overall dish very well. I found this to be a well conceived, well executed, and thoroughly delicious dish.
Course #9: Horiatiki Salad
A salad so late into a meal might seem strange to the American sensibility but is quite common in Europe. As the previous dish was rather heavy, the lightness of this salad was welcome. I was missing the feta cheese as this was not a traditional Horiatiki salad, at least to my understanding, but it was otherwise simple, tasty and beautifully presented.
Course #10: Baklava Napoleon
OK, second confession. As stated above, I hate moussaka...but I absolutely despise baklava. Just thinking about it is enough to make me simultaneously cringe, reach for a hundred moist towelettes, and worry about lapsing into a sugar coma should I actually consume this nasty confection. If you've eaten bad baklava before you know what I'm talking about. I think this take on baklava should be the new standard. This was an impeccably constructed napoleon of crispy phyllo dough and Bavarian cream with a smattering of fresh berries. Not a drop (or deluge) of honey in sight! A prime example of not-so-simple food built with careful hands, nicely presented and wonderfully delicious. Just perfect!
Course #11: Selection of Cheeses, Nuts and Miniature Cookies
This mignardise (bite sized desserts) course was a great end to a great meal. I love ending meals with both sweet and salty items and this selection of mint chocolate truffle, Camembert and manchego cheeses, devil's food cake "dirt", sauteed apple with cinnamon, assorted nuts, and cookie did not disappoint. It was just enough to satisfy without overwhelming what was undoubtedly a room full of very satiated stomachs.
Overall, the Twilight dinner was simply spectacular. If I were to have closed my eyes I could have imagined myself in any number of fine dining establishments enjoying a similar meal (and paying a lot more for it!). Did I mention this entire meal was executed by KIDS?? At 30 dollars this was not only a great value, it was an absolute steal. Based on what I was served on this night, the future of the culinary world is in excellent hands and I truly feel sympathy for other culinary programs having to face Wharton High School in competition.
To Ed and the team, thank you for a wonderful "gastro-gnomic" experience! Next year's Twilight dinner can't get here soon enough.
Until next we dine...eat well and be well,
The Gnome
Overall, the Twilight dinner was simply spectacular. If I were to have closed my eyes I could have imagined myself in any number of fine dining establishments enjoying a similar meal (and paying a lot more for it!). Did I mention this entire meal was executed by KIDS?? At 30 dollars this was not only a great value, it was an absolute steal. Based on what I was served on this night, the future of the culinary world is in excellent hands and I truly feel sympathy for other culinary programs having to face Wharton High School in competition.
To Ed and the team, thank you for a wonderful "gastro-gnomic" experience! Next year's Twilight dinner can't get here soon enough.
Until next we dine...eat well and be well,
The Gnome
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